Makerspace

Tolerance Kit

A printed hole comes out small and a printed peg comes out fat, by an amount that belongs to your machine, your nozzle and the spool in front of it. Guessing that amount is why a first print is usually wrong. Print this plate once and you never have to guess it again.

Press fit: pin and comb Snap arms Running fit: shaft and collars
Drag to turn, scroll or pinch to zoom

Print it, then read it

Every station wears its own number, in seven segment digits you can read at arm's length. On the comb and the collars the number is hundredths of a millimetre, so 25 means 0.25 mm. On the arms it is tenths of a percent of strain, so 25 means 2.5 percent.

The combpress fit

Push a pin into each hole in turn, smallest first. Two answers come out of one bar: the tightest hole it enters and stays put in, and the first hole it slides into without wobble.

The armssnap fit

Push each arm sideways until it touches its rail, then let go. Every rail sits the same distance away, so the arms differ only in how hard that bend is on the plastic. Note the thinnest one that springs all the way back.

The collarsrunning fit

Drop each collar over the shaft. The tightest one that still spins freely is your running fit, and it will be looser than either number the comb gives.

Write the answers down

Kept in this browser and nowhere else. Other generators on this site read the same four numbers, so you only ever answer these questions once per printer and spool.

What the plate told you

Press fitWent in with a push and stayed
Slip fitSlid together by hand, no wobble
Running fitTightest collar that still spun
Snap armsThinnest arm that sprang back

Saved

Now use it

Two sums, and they are the only two you need. Both run on whichever profile is ticked above.

A hole for something round

Add the clearance to the diameter, not the radius. Deep holes want the looser end of the range, and a hole shallower than a millimetre or two barely needs any clearance at all.

A snap arm that survives

A cantilever strains its root by 3 y t / 2 L², where y is the bend, t the thickness and L the free length. Everything else follows: double the length and the same arm takes four times the bend.

The fine print

Print it like a real part

Layer heightWhatever you usually use
Walls3 or more
Infill20 percent or more
SupportsNone, nothing overhangs
OrientationAs downloaded
BrimOn the shaft, if it wobbles

The answer belongs to the settings that made it, so print this the way you print everything else. A kit sliced at 0.1 mm will not describe a part sliced at 0.3 mm, and a new spool of a different brand is a new measurement.

Why it stands up

Holes and pegs both print standing, because a hole lying on its side is a different hole. The comb's holes start on the bed with their first layer squashed, which is exactly how holes usually arrive, so the number you read includes that.

Circles are really polygons here. A pin's corners sit on its circle, so it is never fatter than nominal; a hole's flats sit on its circle, so it always passes a nominal pin. Skip that and every hole comes out a few hundredths small, which is most of a step.

Where the numbers go

Once a profile is saved, the other tools here pick it up on their own: the Adapter Maker offers your three fits at the top of its list, the Bracket Maker works out the hole each screw really wants, and the Keychain Maker cuts its ring hole over size by what your printer loses.

A saved profile lives in this browser under printfit, as the active entry of a small list. Anything else served from this site can read it:

JSON.parse(localStorage.printfit)

The share button on a profile puts the same four numbers in a link, which is the only copy that survives clearing a browser. The geometry is a small Javascript module that runs in node as happily as here.